Before we even press Start, let’s make sure your laundry setup is working for you. A good setup gives you the right tools, prevents damage, and helps you avoid common pitfalls like using the wrong detergent or overloading your machine.

Recommended equipment*

*Spoiler: this is one big shout-out to The Dirt Company.Some of the reasons I love it: it’s effective, smells great, lasts for ages, is locally made, refillable, and looks good sitting in your laundry. 

• Two soaking buckets - about 10 L each, one for whites and one for colours

• Old toothbrush - for gently agitating stubborn stains after you spray

• Regular detergent - my all-time fave is Dirt Advanced Wash

• Wool or silk wash - regular detergents contain enzymes that “eat” protein fibres (like silk and wool). Use a delicate-specific one such as Dirt Wool & Delicate Wash

• Stain-removing spray - use generously on fresh marks, again, Dirt is my fave, the Oil, Body and Grease is a fail safe (lots more info on stains below), an ‘oxy action’ spray also necessary to have on-hand for dye-based stains.

• Drum cleaner - I use Dirt Machine Drum Wash at the change of every season. The same time I reset my moth traps! Keep reading for more info on that.

• Front-loader washing machine - uses less water, gentler agitation, and the hand-wash cycle is a solid stand-in for real hand washing

• No fabric softener - it can build up inside the machine, make towels less absorbent, reduce stretch in activewear, and leave a film that traps odours

Here’s how to run your typical loads with confidence - sorting, cycles, temps, and machine care.

Check care labels (before buying and before washing)

• Check labels when shopping. If it’s “hand wash” or “dry clean only,” ask: does that fit my lifestyle and level of laundry fucks?

• Labels are conservative. Many items can be safely machine-washed on gentle, cool cycles. Proceed carefully with silk, viscose, and tailored suiting (especially structured shoulders - they’ll collapse).

• Learn your symbols - or just Google them when in doubt.

Loading and Sorting

• How full - ⅔ to ¾ full when wet is ideal. Too empty = too many suds, not enough friction. Too full = no agitation, dirty clothes, stressed machine.

• Sort smart

  • Whites and colours separate, always.

  • Towels on their own (they share lint).

  • Dark prints on light bases go with lights or coloureds, not darks, to avoid over-dyeing.
    

• Colour care – wash brights and darks cool. Avoid throwing dark denim (or dark anything) in with white tees unless you enjoy DIY tie dye.

Cycles and Temperatures 

1. Hygiene & heavily soiled loads - Kids’ clothes, sheets, towels, tea towels: run on a cottons cycle (about 2.5 h).
   

   • If there’s gastro or other nasties in the house: pre-rinse solids off, run a 30 min pre-wash, then a full long hot wash.
     

   • Sanitation cycle at 90 °C is fine for cottons but check fibre labels - synthetics, colourfastness and elastic will suffer at high heat.
     
     

   2.Everyday clothes - For adult daily wear, a 1–1.5 h “mixed” or “daily” cycle on 30–40 °C is perfect.
   
   

2. Quick washes - Only use for lightly worn, unsoiled clothes. They’re shorter because they skip rinse/agitation stages.
   
   

3. Temperature – 30–40 °C covers most laundry. Hotter fades colours and uses far more energy.
   
   

4. Detergent dosing - Measure it. More isn’t better; it builds residue that can actually trap grime and smells.
   
   

D) Fabrics and Special Care

• Wool & silk - Use a gentle, enzyme-free detergent. Avoid stain sprays or soakers that contain enzymes - they’ll literally munch the fibres.
  
  

• Delicates & intimates - Hand wash if possible, or on a handwash cycle if you have a super gentle front loader. Wash white underwear separately; white/nude elastic loves to absorb colour.
  
  

• Denim - Wash cold, inside-out, and remove immediately when the cycle ends. If you don’t, you can get ‘crease’ marks through the dye.
  

  • Rigid, raw, or premium denim (especially pure cotton with deep indigo dye) is the worst for crease-fade.
    

  • Cheap denim tends to have unstable dye and will bleed.
    

  • A salt soak before first wear can help set colour.
    

  • Jeans with stretch (elastane) are generally lower maintenance and less likely to form “whisker” fade lines.
    
    

• Fabric softener – Use rarely (if ever). It coats fibres, blocks absorbency, and contributes to machine sludge.
  
  

• Dry-clean only – Stick to the label for suiting, some silk blends, and viscose tailoring. Otherwise, spot clean or use a fabric-refresh spray (Dirt’s is great) and a handheld steamer to freshen.
  
  

• Machine care – Leave the washing machine door open ALWAYS to dry out and stop mould from growing in the seals. Wipe seals and the detergent drawer regularly. Do a drum cleaning cycle or treatment and Check the bottom filter every 3 months. The filter is the one at the bottom where you have to unscrew the pipe, I’ve found coins, Lego, and all kinds of kid ‘treasures’.

General Maintenance & Machine Health

• If laundry isn’t coming clean: clean seals, filters, and run a drum wash.
  

• Don’t overfill - you should be able to fit your hand vertically on top of the load.
  

• Air-dry where possible. High heat shortens fabric life, causes pilling and shrinkage.
  

• Store clean, dry clothes in a ventilated space. Musty wardrobes are often just too packed.
  

A) Soaking

For stubborn stains or oil and grease stains: spray stains first, leave 1–2 h, then soak.

Keep whites and colours separate when soaking.

Wool & silk need enzyme-free products - try a mild detergent soak or Sard Wonder Soap. Go gently; no scrubbing or rough agitation. A patch test might be necessary first to check for colour fastness.

• Oxygen bleach powders (like Napisan or Dirt Powder Booster) are brilliant for brightening. Always dissolve first before clothes go in - direct powder can leave pale patches.

• Chlorine bleach - use only for whites, diluted at about 1 Tbsp per litre of cold water. Never use hot water (heat releases chlorine gas that’s baaaaaad to inhale) and don’t mix with ammonia or vinegar. Limit exposure to 5–10 minutes and rinse thoroughly.

• Strip washing - soak heavily soiled or smelly items (like bedding, towels, sportswear) in hot water, washing soda, borax, and detergent - you can find a ‘recipe’ for this by Googling. Do it in the laundry tub or bath for big items but be careful lifting - wet textiles are heavy!

• Keep items submerged for an even soak (a plate or bowl on top of your soaking bucket helps).

B) Stain Playbook

Treat stains ASAP — the fresher they are, the better your chances.

I usually spray and leave 15 min – 1h before washing, and/or soak for 4–24h depending on fabric and soaker strength.

These guidelines work well for cottons. Delicate fabrics need gentler care - see tips above.

Oil, butter, grease, makeup

Spray with an enzymne-based stain spray, agitate with a soft toothbrush, wash. On some fabrics (generally lighter colours) dishwash detergent is my go-to before a laundry spray. Sun-dry if possible as the sun has wonderful bleaching properties.

Tomato / pasta sauces

Spray with an enzyme-based product (or use dishwash), gently rub, rinse, wash. If still stained, repeat with soaker.

Chocolate

Spray with enzyme spray, rub in a dab of detergent, wash.

Coffee / tea

Spray with oxy-action product and wash; for set stains, make a paste from your soaker product first. Sun helps lift remaining marks.

Berries / fruit

Pre-spray with an oxy-action product, then soak with soaker before washing. Sun-dry.

Grass / mud

Gently scrub with toothbrush, then wash with detergent. If grass stains are very green, an enzyme-based spray could also be a good idea.

Blood

Always cold water first — heat sets it. Spray with an enzyme based product, agitate lightly, wash.

White deodorant marks

Spray with enzyme spray and rinse, or soak for big patches.

Sunscreen

Tough on whites! Ingredients like oxybenzone, octocrylene, and avobenzone can yellow fabric permanently. Pre-treat immediately, blot off excess oils, spray, let sit, then wash. Avoid these ingredients where possible. Mineral sunscreens are kinder on clothes.

Wine

Spray with an oxy-action spray, agitate lightly, wash. Finish in the sun.

Paint / ink

Throw your whole arsenal at them! Try two different sprays in sequence if needed. Some permanent inks won’t budge.

Baby / formula stains

Spray with an enzyme based stain treatment, agitate gently, wash, and sun-bleach naturally.

Mould / mildew

Use chlorine bleach (cold, diluted, patch-tested). Rinse well and rewash.

Bubble mix

You’re a bit stuffed. I am yet to find a cure for bubble mix stains!

Extra tips

• Manufacturer recommendations are not to leave oxygen-bleach soakers on fabric longer than ~2 hours. I break this rule often!
  

• If you’re unsure how a fabric will behave, patch-test first, especially on synthetics or delicate fibres.
  

• Never mix different chemical soakers.
  

As I mentioned before, sunlight is the most amazing free bleach for whites - hang garments on hangers and rotate for even exposure.

If you don’t have m/any ‘rejuvenation’ tools in your laundry, The Fabric Care Companyare a great place to buy from. Their products are WAY more robust than cheaper suppliers and definitely worth the investment.

• Electric de-piller - worth the investment if you own knitwear or cashmere. A good one lasts years.
  

• Manual fabric shaver - ideal for quick touch-ups. Avoid using on open knits.
  

• Pet hair tools - these two are brilliant:
  

  • Pet Comb
    

  • Miracle Brush- Be gentle on fine fabrics.
    

• Reviving black cottons – use Dylon dye pods (specifically the pods - they’re the easiest product on the market to use) to re-dye faded blacks. Note they may dye decorative stitching and logos. I do a redye of my black cottons and linens at the start of each summer season and they come up good as new!
  

• Tiny bleach spots on black – a black permanent marker (Sharpie) can disguise them. Test first.
  

• Cashmere reality check – it will pill. De-pill regularly, especially early on; it sheds less over time.
  

• Moth defence

  This one is close to my heart. I’ve recently had an infestation in a Moroccan wool rug (despite being mostly diligent with prevention). I’ve deemed them insidious fuckers, once you have them, they’re REALLY hard to get rid of.
  
  These are the two products I use:
  

  • Envirosafe Moth Trap
    

  • Hovex Vaporgard Moth Killer (this stuff stinks, I open them and leave them in the garage for a few days to ‘degas’ before putting them in the bedrooms)

I have a calendar reminder set to replace them every 3 months (or at the start of each new season. Cedar and lavender products smell nicer but aren’t as tough. Mothballs are the nuclear option - effective but stinky.

Problem: Whites turning grey

• Possible Causes: Poor sorting, detergent build-up, old fibres

• Fix: Spot-treat, soak, sun-bleach, or strip wash

Problem: Colours fading

• Possible Causes: Too-hot washes, over-washing, wrong detergent

• Fix: Wash cooler, sort better, right dose

Problem: Items still dirty

• Possible Causes: Dirty filter or seals, overload, too little water

• Fix: Clean filter, run drum wash, increase or reduce load size for more/less agitation

Problem: Machine smells musty

• Possible Causes: Closed door, residue build-up, softener film

• Fix: Leave door open, wipe seals, clean drum

Problem: Stinky activewear

• Possible Causes: Fabric softener, trapped sweat bacteria

• Fix: Skip softener, deep soak or strip wash

Let’s talk ironing. Most people fall into one of three camps:

1. Zero ironing ever

2. Some ironing if I really have to

3. I will iron most things (and maybe enjoy it)

All are valid. Truly. The goal here isn’t to convert you into an ironing tragic - it’s to help you minimise creases before they happen, then choose the level of effort that works for you.

First: think before you buy

Before we even get to irons and steam, it’s worth thinking about crease management at the shopping stage.

• Crisp cottons (shirts, poplin, voile) will almost always need ironing if you want them to look sharp.

• Linen can absolutely be worn crinkled, especially if you lean into a relaxed silhouette and don’t expect it to look pressed-flat.

• Synthetics often crease less, but they’re hot to wear, don’t breathe well, and aren’t great environmentally. They can also hold onto body odours more than natural fibres.

If you know you’re a low-iron person, choosing fabrics and silhouettes that tolerate wrinkles will save you a lot of frustration.

Crease reduction for everyone (this is where the magic really is)

How you wash, dry and handle clothes will determine how much ironing you need later. This is the stuff that makes the biggest difference.

1. Get clothes out of the machine as soon as the cycle finishes
   Sitting crushed together while damp is where a lot of creasing starts. I often use the delay function on my washing machine so a load finishes when I get home from work - less smell, fewer creases, happier clothes.

2. Line drying technique matters
   Line drying can make fabrics stiffer and create fold creases. Hanging items on hangers before putting them outside makes a huge difference.

   • Take a minute to smooth seams, straighten collars, and tug hems into shape on the hanger.

   • Linen in particular benefits from this, it dries relaxed rather than sharply creased.

3. Fold or hang things straight away
   Jamming clean laundry into a basket is basically asking for more wrinkles. Folding or hanging items as you take them off the line saves work later.

4. The dryer can help (with caveats)
   A clothes dryer, followed by immediate folding or hanging, is the easiest way to minimise creases.

   • Do not put knits, delicates, or activewear in the dryer, it shortens their lifespan and can cause shrinkage or stretching.

   • Use low heat and don’t over-dry.

5. Gravity is your friend
   Hanging clothes gives creases time to drop out naturally. Sometimes all a garment needs is a night on a hanger.

Zero ironing commitment (no judgement, I see you)

If you truly never want to iron:

• Do all the crease-reduction steps above. They matter most here.

• Hang rather than fold where possible — gravity helps wrinkles relax over time.

• Choose fabrics that look good with texture: linen, heavier cotton jerseys, knits.

• Use a steamy bathroom trick: hang clothes while you shower to soften minor creases.

• Accept a slightly relaxed look as part of your style — it often reads intentional, not sloppy.

Moderate ironing commitment (selective effort)

If you’ll iron when needed, but don’t want it to be a whole production:

• Make your ironing setup easy to access. The harder it is to get the board out, the less likely you’ll bother.

• Invest in a decent iron with some weight — heavier irons do more work for you.

• Always use the steam and spray functions. Dry ironing is harder and less effective.

• Iron clothes while they’re slightly damp, or use a spray bottle to reintroduce moisture.

• Prioritise the visible bits: collars, cuffs, hems, front panels. You don’t need to iron every inch for things to look pulled together.

• Consider a steamer for quick touch-ups (more on that below).

Very keen ironers (respect)

If you’re someone who irons most things:

• Use distilled water in your iron to prevent mineral build-up, spitting, and scale inside the iron.

• Empty the water reservoir after use to extend the life of the iron.

• Have a dedicated “to be ironed” basket so clothes don’t get crushed while waiting.

• Make a ritual of it - good lighting, a podcast or TV show you love, and batch it rather than doing bits and pieces.

• Iron inside-out for dark colours to avoid shine, especially on cottons and wool.

• Use a pressing cloth for delicate fabrics to prevent scorching or shine.

Iron vs steamer: which is better?

• Irons are better for sharp creases, crisp cottons, collars, cuffs, and anything tailored.

• Steamers are brilliant for quick refreshes, delicate fabrics, knits, dresses, and garments that don’t need to be perfectly flat. They’re also gentler and harder to mess up.

Many households benefit from having both — an iron for structure, a steamer for speed.

Final thought on ironing

Ironing isn’t a moral obligation. It’s a tool.
If you can reduce creases before they happen, choose fabrics that suit your tolerance, and pick the right level of effort for you, laundry gets a lot less annoying.

Wrinkled clothes don’t mean you’re failing — they just mean you’ve got better things to do.